Jeg undres: Mad- og alkoholkultur
28. maj 2010 16:42, Joggy
Jeg undrer mig ofte over madkultur. Nu er jeg et ganske simpelt menneske, så god mad for mig kan nemmeste beskrives ud fra det jeg kalder baconprincippet: God mad kræver intet mere end kød, fedt og lidt salt. Men grunden til min undren er dybere. Fin mad er ofte krydret mad (i særdeleshed historisk set), men langt de fleste krydderiers smag er opstået for at undgå, at dyr spiser dem. Mange krydderier er frø, som modsat normale frø, der typisk er bitre, har en karakteristisk smag. Men det gælder ikke kun krydderier; Lakrids, mint og chokolade er ikke ligefrem dyrs fortrukne spise, men mennesker nyder det. Nogle krydderier er selvfølgelig blevet brugt til at dræbe bakterier i mad, typisk i kulturer uden salt, men langt fra alle krydderier har den egenskab.
Det interessante er, at jo finere mad er, desto mere tilvænning kræver det at spise det. Det samme kan siges om øl og vin. Børn spiser ikke delikatesser! Er fin mad og drikke en måde at signalere, at man har nået et civilisationsniveau, hvor man kan undertrykke ens ’naturlig’ smag for derimod at have trænet sig til at spise noget, som intet dyr eller ’primitivt’ menneske vil røre?
Se, nu er status ikke en forklaring på alt, men måske langt hen ad vejen. Mennesker er det dyr, der er mest tilbøjelige til at kede sig. Vi stiller store krav til variation og udfordring. Set i det lys, er det ikke underligt, at asiatisk mad er krydret, eftersom asiatere pga. overbefolkning har måttet leve hovedsageligt af kulhydrater, særligt ris. De kompenserede derfor for manglen på kød med store mængder krydderier. Så selvom eller netop fordi mange krydderier er naturens fejlslagne forsøg på at udvikle gifte, så spiser vi så at sige krydderier for spændingens skyld.
Mennesker har et behov for at pine sig selv for vise andre vores selvkontrol og -disciplin. Overvej blot hvilke sindssyge diæter folk går på. Grapediæt? Hvad sker der for det? En diæt hvor man udelukkende spiser en frugt der mest af alt smager bittert. Bittersmag er jo naturens store ”no, no” skilt, fordi giftstoffer og umodne frugter typisk smager bittert. Ingen fedtdiæt? Fedt er kalorier som så meget andet, og vil man tabe sig, skal man bare indtage færre kalorier end man forbrænder. Alligevel forsøger mange diæter at fjerne netop den kaloriekilde, der gør mad lækkert at spise, nemlig fedt. Det er ikke sundt at lade være med at spise fedt, og man taber sig højst sandsynligt ikke af det, fordi man blot kompenserer for manglen på fedt ved at spise flere kulhydrater – måske endnu flere kalorier end man begrænsede sit fedtindtag med, fordi kroppen skriger på mad, når den ikke får fedt. Det skal være kedeligt at tabe sig, fordi at ville tabe sig handler ikke om at tabe sig, for nu at sige det som Robin Hanson ville have sagt det. At ville tabe sig handler om at signalere selvkontrol og -disciplin.
Og hvad med alkohol? Hvorfor har evolutionen ikke længe sagt stop med en automatisk brækrefleks, så vi kunne stoppe mens legen var god? Vi har i hvert fald tilpasset os på nogle punkter. Folk der enten ikke har haft alkohol eller kun haft små mængder alkohol, reagere anderledes på alkohol end os. De fleste samfund har haft alkohol, men kun landbrugssamfund har haft store mængder. Grønlændere har af gode grunde aldrig være i besiddelse af alkohol, før vesterlændingene kom til; det er jo ganske svært at brygge sprut på kød, og planter har de ikke haft mange af. Grønlændere har derfor en meget stærk tilbøjelighed til at udvikle afhængighed. Også indfødte i Australien og New Zealand har problemer med at holde sig fra sprutten, højst sandsynligt fordi de heller ikke har udviklet en modmekanisme mod afhængighed.
Et hurtigt kig på verden siger mig også en ting, folk med adgang til store mængder alkohol har evolutionært fundet to løsninger: Høj tolerance eller meget lav tolerance. Høj tolerance gør kroppen i stand til at håndtere alkoholen; meget lav tolerance stopper det inden det er for sent. Mange asiatere har eksempelvis en genetisk mutation, der gør dem meget hurtigt syge (og rødmende) efter indtagelse af alkohol. Mellemøstelige samfund, som jo opfandt landbrug for så længe siden at de havde tid nok til at dyrke jorden til ørkner, har anderledes indfødt kulturelle forbud mod alkohol. Uden særlig kendskab til særlige genetiske mutationer, kan jeg sagtens forstille mig, at vi i Europa, særligt Nord- og Østeuropa, har en meget høj biologisk tolerance for alkoholindtagelse.
Man kan spørge sig selv: Hvorfor fylder alkohol så meget i vores kultur? Drukkultur går langt tilbage. Selveste Thor blev udsat i prøvelser i at bunde mjød. Interessante nok er mænd betydeligt mere tolerante over for alkohol end kvinder. Mænd kan rent fysisk holde til mere, men mænd tager også mindre mental skade af alkoholisme end kvinder. En sådan forskel skyldes ofte en ting: Mænd har konkurrerede om kvinder ved at indtage alkohol. Egentlig er alkohol en genial opfindelse til at teste en person. Har du ikke en influenza ved hånden, men vil du gerne teste styrken af en persons krop, så lad ham fylde kroppen op med gift, og se hvordan den håndterer det. Oveni kan du også observere hans mentale stabilitet og selvkontrol.
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